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Swarm trapping is another aspect to free bees that entails catching that runaway swarm even when I m not around and in places I can t always be. I ve had my share of experiences where the swarm departed for some unknown destination, and then I ve wondered about the swarms that come out of bee trees in remote areas where no human being was able to discover them and call me. And what about the swarms that people find but they don t know who to call? Eventually those swarms will leave for a hollow tree or somebody s garden shed. How can I get those swarms I don t even know about? Then I began to think about creating some kind of a temporary location that would attract the scout bees so I wouldn t necessarily have to be present to retrieve the swarm, or if I arrived a minute too late, how I might still catch that swarm by setting a trap over the hill or in various locations around the community? Think about it. You get a swarm call. The swarm has left the hive and is clustered on a rose bush in someone s yard. There s a scared and nervous homeowner who wants the bees removed right now. The scout bees are out looking for a new location which they can call home. The scout bees are searching diligently as you ask some simple questions over the phone about how high the swarm is and how long they ve been there. You get organized and start to drive to the swarm site. As you drive to the swarm location, the scout bees begin to narrow down their criteria for the best site. You hit a red light at the intersection. The swarm cluster begins to unwind and take off. You pull over for a funeral procession on the highway. The swarm cluster flies away to a tree about a half mile from the swarm site and they begin to fill the knot hole in a hollow tree, unbeknownst to anyone in the neighborhood. No one has seen them enter that old tree. You pull up to the swarm site. The nervous homeowner, still in a state of shock as he witnessed the unwinding swarm, mutely points to the few stranglers

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View Storey s Guide to Keeping Honey Bees, 2nd Edition (Storey s Guide to Raising) acces
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Heres the entire video of how to harvest honey from bees while having fun in the process! Hope you enjoy the video!\r
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Beekeeping enthusiasts,\r
Our new video shows a closeup step by step instructional how to for young beekeepers where we show the beeswax decapping process we follow to clean the frames, remove the cappings, and prepare the frame for extrion in a centrifugal frame extror.\r
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There are many ways beekeepers choose to remove the cappings from their honey frames. None of them can be considered the best or the ultimate, nor can any other methods be considered flawed. It is a very individual matter. Some hobby beekeepers use a hot know, some a steam knife, others use only the decapping fork or a simple kitchen serrated knife. And those beekeepers operating in larger beekeeping farms and apiaries with 20 or more hives tend to have automated machines that have spinning rotary blades or spikes that as the frames pass through, remove the top beeswax cappings. Some things to consider when starting out, is the volume of frames you are going to be processing. That will definitely have an imp on how you choose to remove the cappings. Other considerations may include your opinion and thoughts on say a hot gun may have on the quality of honey you produce. Another consideration is what to do with the cappings? Do you want beeswax? The work it takes to clean it, melt it, filter it and process it? Many dont want the hassle and opt to scratch the cappings or use the heat gun. \r
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As you get more familiar with your beehive and the honey frames you extr, you will find that the bees also produce varying shapes on the honey frame, and that too can be a problem and may alter your choice of beeswax decapping process you choose to try or adopt. In this video, we had a perfect frame, where the cappings were built outward by the bees and the cappings were ABOVE the ual timber frame. This makes it perfect for use of a hot knife, as the knife can be rested on the frames and simply slice off the wax cappings. Many frames however are not that way and the bees build them just below the full depth or height of the timber frames. In this scenario, a hot knife can do very little, and the only way to get the cappings off is to either scratch them or pull them off bit by bot using the decapping fork. This often leads to another debate we will cover in one of our future videos – should you use 10 frames or 9 frames in a full deep honey super? What are your thoughts? Leave us a comment below. Will the honey yield be higher or lower? Or the same? Will the hot knife cut through a much thicker overhang of honey comb? Will the running honey cool it too quickly slowing the whole process down? We are keen to hear your thoughts. \r
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So as you can see, you will need to equip yourself with tools and skills to use them to accommodate several scenarios, each requiring a different method. Each honey frame will be different and may require use of two to three different styles even within the single honey frame. \r
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We thank you for your support and hope you visit us again for our next video, where we will examine the use of a heat gun. Is this the method for you? Many say it is fantastically easy, fast and more efficient! We are keen to learn your thoughts on the matter after seeing our brief study.\r
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Have an enjoyable day.\r
MahakoBees\r
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Music composed, performed and provided by Groovey – Adam Kubát a Pavel Křivák\r
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